How my future turned Rosé...
Reading Tracey Emin's Guardian column, "My Life in a Column"
Tracey Emin drinks Rosé whilst making deeply confessional art. Inspired, I started drinking bottles of the stuff. And became deeply superficial. Let me tell you what happened.
Tracey did
Firstly, I'll admit it: I never really drank much Rosé. I only started because Tracey did. Not only because she's my favourite contemporary artist, but I guess, I'm going to be as confessional as Tracey here... maybe if I drink enough Rosé I could actually kinda... be Tracey.
You know, in between showing work in Venice and New York, she's at her home in East London tending her rose garden or getting totally sloshed on Rosé and sending emotionally slippery text messages to long distance friends.
Oh my god! That's... me!
Get a grip of things
Ok, go ahead, quibble, "but she's an internationally famous conceptual artist!" Ok, sure. Whatever. But listen, it could be me...if I was an internationally famous conceptual artist.
I'm at my studio. I'm half a bottle of rosé down. It's five o'clock. It's Friday afternoon and it's Crackerjack time. Fuck it, I make my own invitations. I phone J Sheekey and book a table for six for 10pm.
Then, slowly, everyone at the table is transformed from ghostly apparitions to really good, close friends.
At that, I demand to know where my food is, to find I have already eaten it, and have already paid the bill, and have knocked back half a bottle of dessert wine on top of the three bottles of rosé. Nice one Trace. Really cool. See how you've got a grip of things?
So. There. You're probably wondering, how did I go about becoming Tracey Emin? Or more to the point, how could I drink so much cheap Rosé?
What do you look for in a Rosé?
It's not like it seizes you with any characteristics in particular; indeed, it often doesn't have that many. But that's not the point. It's a general feeling you get from it, rather than a particular excellence.
Bottle after bottle of the stuff, all I could tell you is what I didn't like. I didn't like Rosé that had confectionary coconut-ice characters, tasted like lolly water, had a fluorescent colour, or a strawberry lipgloss aftertaste.
Then I found one I did like and I couldn't drink anything else. The Marquis De Goulaine Les Landelles Rose De Loire 2005. I bought 3 dozen of it.
Grolleau, Cabernet Franc, Gamay grapes (fantastic - never heard of them!) it is sunset-orange in colour, turkish delight tasting, low enough in alcohol to drink a bottle and still be able to think before presssing "send" to a very very wrong text message.
Here's a picture of my – I mean, her – installation. I saw it at the Saatchi Gallery in London (nb: they don't like you trying to climb in).
Tracey Emin "Everyone I Have Ever Slept With 1963 - 1995"

Oh! There's another thing – I own a tent, too. But I guess the difference is, unlike Tracey – if I'm going to be really honest here – there's no way I'd remember Everyone I Have Ever Slept With.